Let’s be real—not all T-shirts are created equal when it comes to embroidery. You could have the fanciest embroidery machine and the most skilled digitizer, but if you stitch a detailed design onto a flimsy, stretchy tee, it’s going to look like a wrinkled mess after one wash.
I’ve ruined my fair share of shirts learning this lesson the hard way. So, let’s break down exactly what to look for (and what to avoid) so your embroidered designs turn out crisp, professional, and long-lasting.
1. Fabric: The Make-or-Break Factor
The Goldilocks Zone: Cotton-Polyester Blends
Pure cotton feels amazing, but it shrinks like crazy. Pure polyester doesn’t breathe. The sweet spot? A 50/50 or 60/40 cotton-poly blend. It’s stable enough for embroidery but still soft and breathable.
Best for: Most embroidery projects (logos, names, detailed designs).
Feels like: Your favorite broken-in tee.
100% Cotton: Classic but High-Maintenance
Pros: Super soft, great stitch definition.
Cons: Shrinks, wrinkles, and can warp under heavy embroidery.
Fix: Pre-wash it before stitching, or live with the fact that it’ll fit like a kid’s shirt after a few washes.
Tri-Blends: Soft but Sneaky
Those crazy-soft tees with rayon or spandex? They feel like a dream, but embroidery is a nightmare. The fabric stretches too much, leading to puckered designs.
Only use these for: Tiny chest logos or minimal text.
Stabilizer is non-negotiable: Cut-away stabilizer or bust.
Performance Fabrics: Just Don’t
Moisture-wicking athletic tees are great for the gym, terrible for embroidery. The slick surface makes stitches sink in, and the fabric stretches unpredictably.
2. Weight Matters More Than You Think
Ever tried embroidering on a tissue-thin tee? The fabric buckles, the stitches pull, and it ends up looking like a crumpled napkin. Here’s the breakdown:
Lightweight (120-150 GSM): Feels airy but wrinkles under embroidery. Save these for prints, not stitches.
Midweight (150-180 GSM): The MVP. Thick enough to support stitches without feeling like cardboard.
Heavyweight (200+ GSM): Holds up to dense designs but can feel stiff. Ideal for workwear or bold logos.
Pro Tip: If you’re unsure, pinch the fabric. If you can see your fingers through it, it’s too thin.
3. The Weave: Smooth Beats Textured
You want a tight, smooth fabric—think classic jersey or interlock knit. Avoid:
Slub knits: Those trendy, uneven textures? They make embroidery look jagged.
Piqué (like polo shirts): The bumpy weave can distort stitches.
4. Color Plays Tricks on You
White/light shirts: Easiest to work with. No surprises.
Black/dark shirts: Require an extra layer of stitching (called an underlay) so the fabric doesn’t peek through.
Neon or heather colors: Thread won’t pop as much as you’d hope.
5. Shirt Styles That Won’t Fight You
Crewnecks: The safest bet. Flat surface = happy stitching.
V-necks: Doable, but keep designs small and centered.
Pocket tees: Avoid stitching near the pocket—it’s a lumpy mess.
Biggest Pet Peeve: Side seams. If your design crosses one, the needle will break.
6. Tried-and-True T-Shirt Brands
After testing way too many shirts, these are my go-tos:
Bella+Canvas 3001 – Soft, holds stitches well, doesn’t shrink into a crop top.
Gildan Softstyle – Budget-friendly and decent quality.
Next Level 3600 – Lightweight but surprisingly stable.
Hanes Beefy-T – Thick and durable (but runs boxy).
Brands to Avoid for Embroidery:
Anything labeled "ultra-lightweight" or "stretch."
Cheap dollar-bin tees (they pill, shrink, and fall apart).
7. Pro Tips They Don’t Tell You
Pre-wash everything. Unless you enjoy surprise shrinkage.
Stabilizer is your best friend. For stretchy fabrics, use cut-away (it stays in forever). For stable fabrics, tear-away works.
Less is more. Overloading a tee with dense stitching turns it into a stiff board.
Final Thought
Picking the right T-shirt is half the battle in embroidery. Get it wrong, and even the best design will look amateurish. Get it right, and your work will look pro-level for years.
Any embroidery horror stories or favorite shirt brands? Drop them below—I’d love to commiserate (or celebrate) with you!